New York Fashion Week wrapped last week, giving us a glimpse of this fall’s trends. We can anticipate which designs will hit the racks and start making lists… and saving our hard-earned money. Or we can take a hint from these distinct and brilliant collections and start picking through local boutiques, department stores and consignment shops now.
Here are the highlights. Be inspired.
The master of layering’s fall line featured a dark vision for autumn. If the end of summer brings out your night crawler, you have a kindred spirit here. Jacobs’ collection featured over-sized interpretations of sweatshirts and jerseys, Goth-ed up and repurposed with ragged edges. His trademark layering was given depth by obstructed plaids, textures and weaves.. For the more elegant pieces, Victorian styling was added to slim sweaters with crocheted collar pieces. A dark-wave flapper girl was conjured with finger-wave hair stylings and vampiric make up. Over the top platform shoes were a constant and chilling touch.
In stark contrast, the indomitable Mr. Kors teased and laughed at the rules of fall fashion. Examples of his own take on the season’s conventions were opposed with bright colors, metallics and flats. Across the line, Kors utlized simple, flirty designs, not afraid to even employ flower prints. The opposing approaches created a confident bounce and wink for the somber time of year. As usual, MK shows us the rules as well as how to break them.
The cutting edge design house unveiled a study in restraint. Plenty of ties, straps and heavy seams bound the clothes closely to the body but allowed movement. Silhouettes reflected a quiet, minimized upper body while slashes and slits for the legs maintained the lines and allowed subtle breaks in the restrictive tailoring. Pinched ruffles countered the militaristic designs but in a disciplined way. Muted colors ran throughout with small, vibrant exceptions. Intricate patterns also helped lighten the collection.
Understated British flirt tied Mrs. Beckham’s line together. Plenty of bare shoulders and strapless dresses were paired with tea-length skirts. She reinterpreted the corset, perhaps the corner stone of her personal look, with a tomboy edge and unexpected slits. Conservative knits were a bold element, including hounds-tooth, check and stripes. Pleats, folds and wraps were tailored with a firm masculinity. The layering and outerwear stayed consistent with the sleek and neat look.
RAG & BONE
The brand made some strong statements in their collection. Choosing to walk their models on his and her stages, designs were relaxed in a bold, regimented way. Sporty, form-fitting and tactical, elements of uniforms and outdoor gear were clear. Simple, confident elements were consistent throughout the pants and jackets and even the more refined sweaters and skirts. Function and process seemed the main motivation and were only enhanced by the stark color choices. Rag & Bone turned a corner with their unapologetic approach.
Browne’s show seemed the spoils of the most elegant estate sale. Set in a mystical city park, his technical prowess was on display in repurposed designs from New York in the 20’s. Highly technical tailoring bound together classic jackets, coats and blouses into new and jagged structures. Though transformed, the pieces were highly refined through buttoned up collars, clean lines and tight patterns. Traditional colors like gray, navy and red as well as large plaids also helped to restrain the designs. Browne’s craftsmanship reflects the ghosts of his predecessors from a century ago.
Jeremy Scott’s bombastic invitation to fun makes it clear, he knows what girls want. They just wanna, they just wanna…. Built around cosmic colors and recognizable tropes from Americana, the collection was focused on cowboys and the cowgirls they love. Big belts, loud guitars and cow-patterns made of pinks, yellows and blues were absolutely celebrated. And the designs were not bound to the past or the high plains. Plenty of zany space motifs, futurama and cartoons from Jeremy’s child hood were part of the party, with a cameo by Ren and Stimpy. Shimmering materials, stretched tight and cut short contrasted with the denims and knits. And the big ole’ belts helped create curves that would make Dolly herself proud.
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
DVF and her cadre of brand name models happily turned the runway on its head. Their girls night out pre-party perfectly embodied her collection. They showed off for each other with drinks, laughter and strong, carefree designs. There were flowing skirts with spaghetti strings, slimmed layering through vests and long coats and always plenty of leg. Floral prints and fine patterns were teased up with scarves and brown boots of all heights. The disco glam was further updated with an earthy but bright color palette. Simple work to party clothes for the free-spirited city girl who thrives on sisterhood.
So you can wait for select pieces from these collections to hit the racks in August. Or you can book a flight to New York and hail a cab to SoHo. Or get the jump on everyone else buy scouring your local outlets for bits that remind you of your favorite designer. It’s a private collaboration. Feel free to tell those who ask where you got the idea. Or don’t.